out two identical panels from the pine - see fig 1. for pattern. Finish
the board with sandpaper. Be sure to remove any snags and splinters. Take
extra time on the edges which the saw may leave jaggy.
Next, cut out the 'chin rest' and 'machine head' from the pine and sand smooth. You will need two identical 'machine heads' and two identical 'chin rest' pieces - see fig 2. for the 'machine head' pattern. Look at the picture to see how the 'chin rest' is shaped, and use your main body as a pattern for it.
|Screw the 'chin
rest's onto the main body of the fiddle (do this from below to hide the
screw heads), this should bulk up the width on the bottom edge of the fiddle
enough to easily accept the 1" (25mm) Flapback Hinge.
Drill two holes into each 'machine head' (as shown in fig 2.) and screw two parts of the barrel hinges into the holes on each 'machine head'. This will give the tuning key look. Now attach the two 'machine heads' into the cut outs on the main body. When you put the two halves together you should now have something that reasembles the end product. Varnish the two halves and allow to dry.
Cut some leather off cuts into squares
and roll them up into cigar size tubes. Using the staple gun, line the
wrist holes and neck hole with rolled up leather. This will make the wearing
of the fiddle easier over prolonged periods.
Finally, fix the hinge to the back and attach the eccentric clasp to the front. I used a nice little brass padlock to secure it shut, this has the bonus of making a great clattering noise when the fiddle is moved on the wearer.