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Leaving the speaker attached is optional but I did to show how it all fits together. |
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Even the circuit board will fit into the hole in the bottom so that no wires need to be cut and soldered back later. |
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Another close up of the circuitry being put through the hole. The two wires that are poking up and to the left were the ones that went to the lights in the Dougie's eyes and we did not want to keep. |
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This is shows all the mechanisms from the Dougie that have either been installed or threaded into the skull cavity. Again you can see all the parts that go into the skull but that does not mean they have to go into the skull cavity. |
Several people have installed the control switches on the back of the skull but you could extend the switch panel to another place by soldering on to the existing wire to put it where ever you want. That concept applies to the speaker and sensor as well. Actually if you wanted to place only the jaw and eye motor in the head, you would just extend those wires from a general control box.
**TIP: It is very important that prior to any cutting in the eye cavity, you should decide on the type of eyes (if any) that you want to use. The rolling eyes that Mike Fox used must be installed from the back so that is where you would carve out not from the front.
**TIP: You can turn the eye motor 90 degrees in the head which allows more room between the two motors and everything will fit a lot better. When you do that, you will need to adjust the eyes and/or eyelids to work with this configuration. You can recess the 'ear' on the eye motor to below the calvarium cut to ensure that the skull cap fits down on the skull.
Please note that I am NOT an expert in this area!!!! All of the information I am presenting to you is what I saw during the NW Gathering group's Dougie Hacking. This site is still under construction and the eye motor installation information will be posted soon.